Fiber metal marking (practical guide)¶
Fiber galvos earn their keep on metals: logos, serials, annealed blacks, deep marks, and (with the right source) color. This page is a shop map — not a settings spreadsheet. Build your own library with labeled grids.
Match the mark to the metal¶
| Goal | Typical approach | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| High-contrast logo on stainless | Anneal / black mark or light etch | Alloy quality changes how “black” it goes |
| Coated / anodized aluminum | Remove coating for contrast | Often easier than bare bright aluminum |
| Bare aluminum deep mark | Higher energy density, tighter hatch, multiple passes | Heat management matters |
| Brass / copper | Reflective — needs good focus and enough fluence | Scrap-test; don’t copy video claims blindly |
| Color on stainless | Controlled heating (MOPA preferred) | Not durable like a paint fill; light-angle dependent |
Hatch, frequency, and pulse width¶
On pulsed fibers, frequency and (MOPA) pulse width sit beside power and speed. Changing only power is why many first libraries look muddy. Run grids that vary one axis at a time, then save winners with lens name and metal grade in the note field.
Community pattern (not our numbers)
Deep aluminum discussions online often combine relatively high power, moderate speed, fine hatch spacing, and many passes. Exact figures vary wildly by wattage and lens — treat any shared recipe as a scrap-test seed, never as a guarantee.
Want this to click faster? Master LightBurn walks the tools and workflows step by step — lifetime access, one clear path.
Focus tricks people argue about¶
Some operators anneal “in focus”; others raise/lower a few millimeters for black stainless. Both camps exist in public threads. The shared truth: pick a method, fixture height, and re-grid when the lens changes. Do not chase color and deep engrave with the same assumption about focus.
Fixturing and heat¶
Thin tags and coins warp. Use jigs, intermittent passes, or thermal sinks when needed. Fingerprints and oils change color results — wipe parts before “final” color jobs.
Production tips¶
- Batch by alloy and thickness so focus stays put
- Photograph successful coupons next to a handwritten settings note
- For client logos, proof on the actual blank lot — coated tumblers vary
- Price color and deep work for the testing time, not only the burn time (pricing)
What not to expect¶
- CO₂-style wood cutting performance
- One settings file that works on every stainless grocery spoon
- Instant wide-gamut color on a basic Q-switched unit without frustration
Related reading¶
Sources and further reading¶
- LightBurn forum: Experiences with color marking
- LightBurn forum: Sharing some color material tests for steel
- LightBurn forum: Color engraving what is true?
Go further¶
Primary next step
Master LightBurn¶
Structured LightBurn training from Bearded Builds — skip the scattered YouTube rabbit holes. Lifetime access with updates.
Also: Shop custom plaques · YouTube · Course hub